Our third trip to ski Japan and our first to Nozawa Onsen, we chose to stay at Kawaichiya for their spa / onsen and traditional style of accommodation (hence ryokan). We timed our trip for the Dosojin Fire Festival on 15th January (recommended) and spent 7 nights at Kawaichiya.
We had a Japanese style room with futons laid on the tatami mat floor and its own bathroom. This was warm, clean and very comfortable.
We found the breakfasts to be a real adventure and very Japanese. Breakfast starts at 7.30 sharp and is a multi-dish affair that was arranged on low set tables in classical tatami mat lined rooms. Dishes comprised various cold & hot dishes including smoked fish, vegetables, tomago, miso soup and provided a wide range of flavours to sample. Each breakfast featured an individual ceramic cooker, which was lit to provide your hot meal complimented by a hot steamed rice - often vegetable based, a couple of days involving the cooking of eggs. We'd not experienced this style of eating before and found it really enjoyable. Indeed, we had the dinner at Kawaichiya one night that proved to be an even more extensive dining experience that we can highly recommend.
Once you've experienced the reviving effects of an onsen after a hard day's skiing you develop a keen appreciation of enjoying an onsen both morning and night. It is worth getting past any precious western misconceptions about communal wash facilities and just enjoying the different cultural experience. In this regard, we found Kawaichiya's onsens to be very good - clean, hot and always a pleasant experience.
Access to the ski field is a reasonable walk up hill to the Yu Road travelator (~300m long), however it is really worthwhile knowing that St.Anton ski hire (at the top, past the ticket office to the left) offers ski & boot storage for both its hire customers and even for those with their own ski gear, for a very affordable Y100 pp/night.
Having skied Hakuba, Furano and Shiga Kogen, we found Nozawa to offer a broad range of challenging, well groomed ski runs and found the abundant fresh snow particularly enjoyable. Midweek is less crowded than the weekend but we never had an instance where we encountered any lengthy queue and often had vast runs to ourselves.
The staff were terrific - enthusiastic, helpful and very welcoming. Trip No. 4 is in the planning and we'll be going back to Kawaichiya.
長野県信州の湯宿 野沢温泉河一屋旅館
Nozawa onsen Kawaichiya